Cilubang

We have long loved rijsttafels w/​their variety of tastes. There used to be a restaurant in San Rafael called The Rice Table, which is a literal translation of rijsttafel. This was the place we were heading for last night. Tonight Alan was clever enough to ask our concierge to make reservations, so when we arrived at 7:00 our table was ready. Our host, a man our age or a little older, greeted us, hung up our coats and seated us at a nice table in the back. He brought us a basket of cassava chips. As far as I can determine this is a two man operation. He manages the front of the house and the chef/​owner cooks and occasionally brings out dishes. The restaurant is small, w/​only 8 tables. A couple walked in w/​o reservations and was gently turned away. Another couple walked in later, saw all tables full and turned around and left.
We were given menus and decided to order the Cilumbang rijsttafel w/​Kuning (saffron) rice. It took at least 15 minutes for our order to be taken, but we had been told service was leisurely, so we weren’t impatient. We ordered the two rijsttafels. I ordered a glass of the house red wine and Alan ordered a white beer. We were brought an excellent soup, called a consommé, but different from the consommé I’m familiar w/​.
The restaurant is decorated w/​Javanese shadow puppets on both side walls, larger and more elegant than those I’d seen before. Draperies are a heavy damask in reds, yellows and oranges. Behind a glass window by our table were a couple of wooden statues and another shadow puppet. The drapery behind them looked to be Thai silk. There was a dark wood carved chest of drawers/​credenza opposite us that served as a work/​staging area. The restaurant was attractive and interesting to look at.
We were brought our rijsttafels, 23 dishes in all. I won’t detail them all. There were 2 beef dishes, one chicken, one pork, peanut sauces, soy based sauces, a variety of vegetable dishes including two w/​tofu. Everything was different and almost everything was delicious. There were also fried bananas and a fruit of some kind that had the texture of pineapple but a different taste for dessert. There was only one dish, a shrimp dish, that we didn’t like because of its intense saltiness. One of the disadvantages of the way everything was served together is that several of the dishes, such as the bananas, were no longer warm by the time we got to them, despite being served in trays w/​candles underneath them for heat.
By the time we finished our meal the restaurant was completely full and our host was busy taking orders and serving. There were couples, threesomes and a family of 6 w/​well behaved children. He didn’t have time to check back w/​us and our dirty dishes sat in front of us for at least 20 minutes. Finally Alan requested our check and we paid and left. The food was the best rijsttafel we’ve tasted, more elegant than the one at Jayakarta. It was more in the style of Borobodur, although I’ve never had a rijsttafel there. If you go you must be prepared to wait, because the pace is not fast, but the food is exceptional.

Super Rijstafeln, romantische Atmosphäre, nichts für das schnelle Essen, man muss Zeit haben, der Restaurantbesitzer und sein Indonesischer Koch haben die auch. Nur ca. 8 Tische also besser reservieren. Ich würde sofort wieder hingehen. Preise: für 2 Personen mit Getränken 80EUR

Per Zufall an einem Sonntag abend — dazu (für Amsterdamer Verhältnisse/​Messezeit) relativ spät gegen 20h ohne Reservierung hier mit 3 Personen aufgeschlagen. Ausschlaggebend war der Wunsch eines Kollegen der lange in Indonesien gearbeitet hatte, indonesisch Essen zu gehen. Und das geht in Holland definitiv einfacher als in D. Gesagt getan, wir sind einfach durch die Straßen und fanden dieses Restaurant. Es ist klein, sehr, sehr gemütlich und strahlt Ruhe aus. Betrieben wird es von zwei älteren Herren, der Service ist sehr zuvorkommend, man fühlt sich gleich zu Hause. Vorweg: nichts für den hektischen «schnell was Essen» Besucher. Manches dauert ein paar Minuten — aber das ist ok. Für mich als Neuling war die Speisekarte umwerfend, wir haben dann die Reistafel Cilubang für drei Personen genommen. Aufzuzählen was alles drauf war würde den Rahmen sprengen (schaut Euch die Karte auf der Homepage an…). Es war einfach lecker, genau richtig von der Menge und wir waren sehr zufrieden. Auch vom Preis. Für drei Personen knappe 100EUR inkl. Getränke. Ach ja: und man kann die Reistafel auch reinvegetarisch bestellen!

Amazing experience. The owner and cook of this very classy and old fashioned indonesian (west javanese) place is in his 70^th and does an excellent job.
Best indonesian food ive ever had. Just perfect!!!
Try the different «rijsttafel» dishes.
A place I always have to visit when I am in Amsterdam.