It’s generally packed with Chinese-American families, which is always a good sign. The cuisine is primarily high-quality Cantonese, but avoid the standard dishes that seem aimed mostly at the non-Asian market and ask about the chef’s specials of the day, which tend to be more authentic creations. For the Chinese equivalent of Mom’s meat loaf, try the steamed pork patty flavored with heavily salted fish — it sounds like a bizarre combination, but it works — and pair it with the tender mustard-green hearts glazed with a rich chicken broth. Stir-fried crab with scallions and ginger is excellent, but ask the price first, since it’s determined by the market and can be high.