São Miguel D’Alfama

On the plus side, this place is in a lovely quiet enclave in the Castle area of the city. There is a pleasant outside area though there wasn’t room for us so we went inside. The décor is ethnic and reflects the traditional Fado atmosphere of the place and I liked it. And there is live music and singing outside which is intermittent throughout your meal — which in itself is good: you can enjoy it without it feeling overwhelming.
So far so positive.
But oh I hate the feeling that I’ve fallen so badly into the tourist trap, and unfortunately that is ultimately what this restaurant is all about. We studied the menu outside and it looked fine — and we were tired and hungry and not in the mood for searching for better options. Generally it’s standard fare around these parts anyway, there isn’t much variation across menus.
But what the menu didn’t show was the drinks, and these are a massive rip off, entirely out of keeping with competitor prices. Five euros for a soft drink, or a bottle of water. Ten euros for 250mls of house wine. Also beware of the 3.50 cover price for each person, which you may not notice until you’re seated, and which you need to factor in when perusing the menu, as the prices will seem better value than they are. I would happily have left at that point, but the kid had buttered the bread. We were committed!
At that, prices are not great value — my fish rice was more like a starter than main course portion — and the food generally while fine was no great shakes.
Unless you are intent on atmosphere and music above other factors, do yourself a favour and try one of the other restaurants that give all relevant information up front.

Good food and quite good music, but very touristic. Be careful with what They propose you for desert and digestive !!! At the end of your meal, they bring you a plate full of deserts to choose but do not advise rates, and propose traditional cherry drink. Both will cost you half your bill ! All plates are 15 euro, and surprise. desert 7,50 and a glass of cherry 7.50 !!

Das poucas vezes que fui a uma casa de fado (cerca de 3) uma delas foi aqui. Enontramo-​nos com um casal amigo em Alfama e, sem nada planeado e sem conhecer boas casas de fado, acabamos aqui. Pedimos uma garrafa de vinho tinto que dividimos pelos quatro ao longo de uma boa hora de fados intercalados nos intervalos por dois dedos de conversa. Foi uma noite agradável, esta muito pouca gente (era dia de semana e chovia) pelo que estivemos muito à vontade.

Pelas vielas estreitas de Alfama encontramos, a assomar-​se timidamente, o restaurante São Miguel D’Alfama. Descobri-​o numa noite em que procurava um sítio para jantar nesta zona, até que ouvi um fado muito bonito que me levou a entrar no restaurante. Parecia ter entrado numa outra dimensão, num ambiente com uma vida muito própria. O espaço é lindo, com arcadas a proporcionarem momentos privados à volta das mesas redondas, ornamentadas por cadeiras de ferro, e com velas românticas a acompanhar. A cozinha privilegia o tradicional português. Eu provei os bifinhos com molho de vinho da Madeira e estavam muito bons. Não sei se os preços praticados variam, entre as noites de fado e as outras regulares, mas paguei cerca de 30 euros pelo jantar.