Şehir Hatları

We didn’t realize we took the ‘long’ bosphorus cruise. It takes you through thebosphorus strait all the way to the black sea and stops at a village ‘Anadolu Havagi’ on the Asian side for 3 hours. We weren’t huge fans of the place and were bored.
The cruise does offer stunning views of Istanbul and all the palaces along the Bosphorus. The history of the place will transport you to a different time and age. Plus you can see two continents (Europe and Asia) at the same time which is very neat.
I’d suggest you take the short cruise closer to sunset. The views will blow you away!

We took the long cruise up the Bosphorus to Anadolu Kavagi (the last village before you reach the Black Sea) and disembarked to climb up the hill to Yoros Castle. The ferry fare is cheap, and the ferry was not crowded when we went in the middle of the day in the winter. The cruise is lovely, especially on a clear, blue-​skied and breezy day. You pass by summer villas from different periods, including the current one.
You can also stop at the Ottoman Empire’s last (summer) palace, Dolmabahce Palace. We didn’t stop there, which is probably my one regret regarding our visit to Istanbul. The palace, built to demonstrate the Ottoman Empire’s modernity, was so expensive that it bankrupted the state. It boasts the largest collection of Bohemian crystals (whatever that means) in the world, and its opulent staircase is made of Baccarat crystals. But I digress…
On the boat tour, you pass under photogenic bridges and by other smaller but also beautiful palaces of the Ottomans. And when you arrive in Anadolu Kavagi, you start to amble up the mountain, and without clear signage or a good sense of where you’re going, you befriend fellow tourists and locals along the way and somehow end up in the right spot. There are nice views of the opening to the Black Sea below. You also have time to catch a pleasant (seafood, this is a fishing village) meal either up at the top or at the port. Then you hop back on the ferry returning to Istanbul.
You purchase the tickets at the port (on the Europe side), no need for advance reservations. The entire trip is several hours — it was our activity for the day, and we didn’t stop at the Dolmabahce Palace…

We couldn’t leave Istanbul without a cruise on the Bosphorus, but were hestitant to take the full 7 hour cruise. Our hotel suggested a short 2 ½ hour Bosphorus cruise operated by Sehir Hatlari. We took the tram to Eminonu stop and headed to the Bosphorus Pier, next to the Galata Bridge, and bought our Short Bosphorus Tour tickets for 10 TL.
The boat has two interior levels, but join the crowd for a seat on the top outside deck for an open view as you cruise down the Bosphorus. The boat makes a stop at Ortakoy on both legs of the cruise. The tour takes you past the Bosphorus Bridge and the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and as far as Istinye before making a U-​turn and return trip.
You have a great view of the European and Asian side of Istanbul, as well of palaces, the Ortakoy Mosque, Rumeli Fortress, Anatolian Fortress, and the ritzy residences and yachts lining the Bosphorus. (
(
(
(
)
We were so happy that we were able to take on this short Bosphorus cruise to take in more of the sites of Istanbul. At 10 TL or $ 5, what a bargain!

I take the Beşiktaş-​Üsküdar ferry every day, twice a day, to and from work. It is absolutely glorious, especially in the evening, around sunset. I am so happy about my commute I may never leave the city again.
That said, there are actually two companies that offer this service: Sehir Hatlari is the public one, it’s run by IETT. The ferry I take is great because it’s largely empty, even during rush hours — its a new route so people prefer the tried and true competitor, Dentur Avrasya. So why do I choose Sehir Hatlari? Well the truth is, it depends on the timing. Unlike the other ferries, it runs on a schedule, so I know exactly whether or not I need to run to catch it. If I run toward the other ferry, it leaves at random times, and I’m usually seconds late, and arrive only to see it slowly pulling away from the pier. Not so with Sehir Hatlari. I know well before I begin running whether or not I can catch the ferry.
I like to stand on the back, on the bottom level, near the bathrooms, because no one else stands there and when I wave at the tankers entering the Bosphorus to welcome them to Istanbul, I can do so in complete privacy without feeling embarrassed.
The negative points are that this ferry, while faster en route, approaches the dock SO EXCRUCIATINGLY SLOW. It’s painful. I hate it. It’s also always too hot during the winter, and freezingly a/c’d in the winter. Another problem is that people always smoke cigarettes on the back (where I like to stand), even though there is a 69TL fine. No one enforces it and I get angry. The most trivial issue with this ferry is the fact that the water splashes you if you stand to close to the rail.
In general, if I were to recommend a specific route along the Sehir Hatlari, choose the Uskudar-​Eminonu one. You’ll see the best parts of Istanbul, and it’s a 20-​minute ride.

We traveled from Europe to Asia and back. In one day. Oh wait, actually it took as short as 20 – 25 minutes one way. This is Istanbul. The city is smacked right in between Europe and Asia and the Bosphorus River separates both continents. Ferries cruise up and down, right and left, along the Bosphorus River. Istanbullus ride them all the time and very often, everyday. Going from Europe to Asia and vice versa? No big deal. It is part of their local lives of being Istanbullus.
A ferry ride costs 2TL per person one way which is not at all expensive considering what you get from the ride. Ferries accept Istanbulkart– the transit card that is used also for trams and buses in the city. The Sehir Hatlari Traditional Ferries are cheap and convenient– you don’t necessarily need to take the expensive cruise tours that prey on tourists to take you up and down the Bosphorus Straits. You can ride the Sehir Hatlari ferries. The ferries dock at different ports in the city on both the European and Asian sides.
The skyline is amazing from the ferries. The ride is romantic. The sounds of the motor engines and waters add to the backdrop of the view. If you choose to sit outdoors, the wind blows on your face. It is a photography backdrop dream. You see the gorgeous Sultanahmet Mosque and its signature of six towering minarets. The refined Suleymaniye Mosque sits grandly on a hill. The recognizable Rustem Pasha Mosque is right along the waters. The Hagia Sophia stands out with its light pinkish exterior walls. The Topkapi Palace makes you wonder what life was like when the Sultan lived there with his wives once upon a time.
You look right and left. On one side you see Europe; you see Asia on the other.
This is Istanbul.