The Atrium

Atrium; a building with a literal glass ceiling. But what here could coin phrase of the figurative invisible barrier? Something, I think, about restaurants pitched as a cut-​above, promises of taste sensations, yet ultimately restricted by the humdrum reality of gravy and peas.
For The Atrium is, give or take, a carvery, but one that will cost you £25 in the evenings. And yet, in terms of that price, you have to accept certain commercial realities. This is a restaurant at an internationally-​renowned golfing venue. Furthermore, The Atrium doesn’t really claim that its shaved meat is the best thing since sliced bread. This is unlike, for example, The Country Kitchen at leafy Four Oaks’ Moor Hall Hotel which imagines elegance when, ultimately, people are queuing in cramped conditions, holding plates, for a premium. It’s all a bit emperor’s new clothes.
Of course, The Atrium’s price for your roast can be beaten, but things take a handy drop, most helpfully during Sunday lunchtimes, when the bottom line is just shy of £17 per head.
Kids between five and 12 eat for half-​price. Lunch is only offered on Sunday. Dinner runs Sunday to Friday from 6.30pm until 10pm, with half an hour shaved off the start-​time on Saturdays.