One of those places that you have to go to at least once in your life. This Belgian(yes — Belgian) restaurant is run, owned and chefed by Frederic Desmette, a completely and utterly hat-stand chap. A character would typify him totally. If he likes you, then you will be allowed to stay, if not, then you will be encouraged to leave. The restaurant is almost a hobby of his and the food is extremely rich. He scours the continent for ingredients and often returns from a trip to France or Belgium with his van laden down with produce. An almost liquid cheese that his excitedly boasted was 100% pure fat, for example. The wine list is huge and well priced — it’s the only place that I’ve ever had a red dessert wine. Expect a lot of chicory, a lot of cream and a non-stop commentary from Frederic himself. The building used to be a pub and still retains a lot of that character. It’s also a little awkward to find. For a truly one-off gastronomic experience, I urge you to run the gauntlet of Frederic and give La Chouette a crack.