Opus

Adventures in gluten free eating. Met a gluten averse friend for dinner tonight. We ordered a gluten free arugula pizza, a plate of mussels and some roasted red peppers stuffed with goat cheese. Everything was good, if a little luke warm.
I could barely tell that the pizza was wheat-​free and according to my dining companion, was some of the best she’s had. Gluten free can sometimes make for an odd, unpleasant texture but I noticed none here. The mussels were tasty and the goat cheese peppers made for an interesting combination. We paired this with their least expensive red wine.
The place was practically empty and it was nice having an area to ourselves. For me, Opus is three stars, but given that it caters to people with wheat allergies, it deserves four.

È strano (it’s strange) that Opus can be gluten free.
È strano how it’s the most authentic and delicious Italian restaurant in that neighborhood (UES, people are suppose to be well heeled, right?) and it gets little play.
The other night when I came in for dinner I got to know the place pretty well. Everyone speaks Italian, the backwaiters, the sous chef, it’s nuts. The GM and the chef are brothers, they’ve been in business since they were 18, now they’re… older.
I was surprised that the menu was not in Italian ala the new wave of artisan restaurants. The GM explained it was because it made the guests apprehensive and tired. Damn, UES! Stop shopping and start eating more.
I had a very complex (flavorwise) appetizer of fava beans and chickory. The beans have to be soaked overnight and the dish is made by the GM’s mother everyday! It had the slight tang of fermentedness while being all around rich and smooth. The texture was almost polentaish. The chickory’s bitter, green bite tempered the pure decadence of the purée.
My friend’s roasted peppers with goat cheese was really memorable. They achieved the panty-​melting combination of caramelized sweetness with woodsy smokiness, you could tell this was not a lazy kitchen that just runs the burnt skins off with water. The goat cheese was smooth and creamy, tangy and fresh.
My beet, goat cheese, and lentil salad was a let down. Everything was fresh and well prepared but the lentils had no flavor at all. It needed some acidity and olive oil… anything.
We had Barolo, that’s right. Yeah, did my date throw it all down to impress me? No, homie. This restaurant has barolo… *drumroll* BY THE GLASS!!! Yeah, it’s 18 dollars but I’ve seen places charge more for montepulciano *cough, cough* Cipriani.
Suddenly—
there was absolute silence for 12 minutes. That’s how long it took my friend to inhale his gnocchi with sweet sausage, porcini, and tomato sauce. «The trick is, you have to make the dumplings when it’s hot. That’s what makes it fluffy,» explained the GM.
Oh my goodness, it was better than Lupa. I never thought I’d taste fluffy, beautiful, cloud-​light gnocchi like this.
Whenever I’m in this neighborhood, this is the only restaurant I’ll eat at.

I ate there today, and it was surprisingly good!!! Everything on the menu can be served either gluten free or regular.
Crab Cakes, $ 9.The crab cakes were the best I have ever had. The outside are crunchy and the inside are soft and fluffy.
Pappardelle with veal ragout and fresh pesto, $ 20. The pasta is house-​made and cooked perfectly. The source is rich but not oily at all.
Opus also serves first-​rate 12-​inch pizza made either with cheese or dairy free, $ 15 to $ 19. Do try one of the fourteen varieties. I promise you will not regret it.
Three desserts are noteworthy at Opus: the delightfully fluffy, not too sweet, gluten-​free Italian cheesecake made with almond «flour» and citrus zest, $ 8, the finger-​licking-​good Tiramisu, $ 8.00, and the unusual granita with figs and cactus pears.
Very happy with my experience. I will definitely go back again!