Taqueria Hugo

On the hunt for the new location of the El As del Taco truck, I traversed the entire length of Burleson Rd. Alas, there was no El As. But there were other opportunities to get my taco stalking fix.
In the lot of a Tejano club stood an unmarked taco trailer, emblazoned with posters for a boxing match. Several scantily-​clad mamacitas lingered about. Key variables which are highly associated with great tacos. And another one: Handmade corn tortillas — check. And a surprise treat on the menu: Quail enchiladas. Already full from another taco run just an hour ago, I had no room for the quail, so I ordered a mere beef fajita taco. I fell for it at first bite. There was a certain astringency to it that was beguiling and led to the heat from a pickled mix of onions and habaneros. The meat was expertly charred and deep-​flavored. The mid-​thickness corn tortilla, hecha a mano, was flawless. Before I finished it, I had already ordered another with suadero. A repeat of the first, with unexpected sauteed onions pushing the experience onto another level.
The ladies who run it are from Michoacan, but they don’t serve carnitas; I’ll return to see if the quail makes up for that.