Enoteca Sileno

Who knew there was this lovely Italian restaurant-​cum-​deli on this particular section of Lygon Street? It’s not near the concentration of Italian places, down south a bit near Cinema Nova/​Readings (you know, all the gelaterias, D.O.C., the touts waiting outside for you). Rather, it’s a standalone place near Pigdon and Lygon. But it’s worth the tram ride up!
It’s huge inside, with a bar up front, a restaurant section out back — and in between, a deli jam-​packed with all kinds of imported goodies. We’re talking jars. Tons and tons of jars, and pots, and cases, full of delicious Italian food. Pickles, sardines, vegetables, truffled honey — everything you never knew existed, but now can’t leave without.
I went for the launch of the Italian Film Festival, and was treated to lots of prosecco that Enoteca Sileno sources — complete with adorable paper around the base of the glass telling you what you were drinking, which I found out was the brainchild of the owner for the evening. It’s the little touches like that — the Italian dedication to detail — that really shows through.

We arrived for Friday lunch and were promptly seated, napkins unfolded and menu specials explained. From here on on the service was excellent. I had carciofi fritters and my companions had anchovy fritters both of them delicious hot and crispy light batter. We them had barramundi with seafood, a good risotto and meaty pasta, desserts were affogato, tiramisu and a delightful sour cherry crumble with cherry curd. Wines are a revelation here and we had Prosecco, and a white from Sicily and reds from the north of Italy. I didn’t pay attention to the labels but they were also excellent. It’s not cheap but it the quality of food and wine make it good value. I challenge you to leave the Enoteca without buying some wine, artisan pasta or coffee.

Nice place to take someone to impress but their prices are Melbourne outrageous…$ 30 for a minuscule cheese platter. Admittedly the wall to wall wine bottles somewhat make up for the prices.

Come prepared to spend your money on the wine list rather than the food here.
I say that because the menu is moderately priced, with some great fresh and chef driven dishes, like the hand made riccota gnocchi with slow cooked lamb shoulder, tomato and red wine ragu. MMMMMMMM Yum! Its not the place to go for a regular old spag bol, but if you are interested in trying the finer flavours of Italian at its best, you’ll be very satisfied here.
Now, back to the wine list. With an astonishing menu that encompasses something like 400 different wines (according to our amazing waiter), and if you have the $$ for it you can enjoy what is sure to be a very special bottle of vino. I personally stuck to wines under the $ 100 mark — but for a cool $ 700 a 2002 Brunello Di Montalcino Reserva DOCG Sangiovese Grosso will delight the most avid wine drinkers, I’m sure.
Enoteca also offers cooking classes too, so you can bring the flavours of Italy to your home.

I had an hour to burn between two house inspections in Carlton North, so I phoned a friend who lives in the area and we popped into Enoteca Sileno’s wine bar on a whim. I’d always been curious about the place — I figured for such a big restaurant/​food store to survive on one of Lygon Street’s most residential stretches, it must be good as it couldn’t rely on pedestrian traffic. Customers need to travel specifically to Carlton North to eat here.
Given it was only midday (which, on a Saturday is equivalent to 9am) I wasn’t hungry, so we asked the charming waiter for the wine list. Oh my god, what a list. I have no idea what half of the bottles were, but I’d say a good 20% were over the $ 300 mark, and there were a few above $ 700. Needless to say, I stuck to the cheaper end and picked a dry Prosecco for $ 50. I’ve never met a Prosecco I didn’t like, but I would happily have babies with this one. Amazing.
Despite just drinking and snacking on free (free!) olives, the waiter treated us as though we were $ 700 bottle customers. We started chatting to him about the food, and he showed us the menu — unlike some of the wines, the traditional Italian meals are extremely affordable. As such, I’ve written Enoteca Sileno on my ‘to eat’ list and will be back soon. Watch this space for an updated review…