No-frills Chinese takeaways hold the same special place in my heart as old man pubs. Maybe because they’re both part of Australia’s significant suburban history: every town has one, the memory of them is hard-wired into our psyche. Sure, when you walk in you feel like you’re in the waiting room of a dentist on the outskirts of town, just by the projects. Sure, the specials are hand-scrawled on pieces of printer paper and stuck on the wall. Sure, sometimes you go in and ring the bell and nobody answers for minutes at a time. And sure, the TV up in the corner has a 6-inch screen and is always kind of fuzzy. But you should try their fried rice, it’s epic, and packed full of everything from BBQ pork to chicken, and at $ 7 for a large tub — that’s two meals, friend! — you just can’t find value like that these days, especially not in Bondi, where just looking in the window of a kombucha store will set you back double digits.